If you’ve been exploring oval diamonds, you’ve probably heard the term “bow-tie effect.” And no, it has nothing to do with actual bow ties, though the name makes sense once you see it. So what exactly is it, and should it be a dealbreaker when you’re shopping for a diamond?
Let’s walk through what the bow-tie is, why it happens, and what you should know before choosing your oval engagement ring.
What Is the Bow-Tie Effect?
The bow-tie effect shows up as a slightly darker area that runs across the center of an oval diamond. Sometimes it looks like a shadow. Other times, it’s more defined and resembles,you guessed it,a bow tie. It’s most noticeable when you look directly at the diamond under certain lighting.
And here’s the key thing: almost every oval diamond has some bow-tie effect. It’s a natural result of how the stone reflects light. That doesn’t mean the diamond is flawed. In fact, a faint bow-tie can give the stone character and contrast.
But there’s a difference between a soft shadow and a harsh, distracting line. The goal is to find a stone where the bow-tie doesn’t dull the sparkle or draw attention away from the rest of the diamond.
Does It Ruin the Look of the Diamond?
It depends. In many cases, a little bit of bow-tie gives the diamond dimension, it makes it feel layered, almost like the light is dancing inside the stone.
The problem only comes in when the bow-tie is so dark that it looks like a black stripe cutting through the center. That kind of shadow can make the diamond look lifeless or flat. But here’s the good news: with the right cut and proportions, you can absolutely find oval diamonds where the bow-tie is soft, balanced, and barely noticeable.
Why It Happens (And Why Cut Matters Most)
The bow-tie effect isn’t about color, clarity, or carat weight. It comes down to how the diamond is cut, specifically, how the facets are angled and how the light travels through them.
A poorly cut oval will show a more severe bow-tie. A well-cut one will still have it, but it’ll be subtle,more of a soft shadow than a harsh line.
This is why cut quality is everything when shopping for an oval. And unfortunately, cut grading on fancy shapes like ovals isn’t always listed on a certificate. You can’t rely on paperwork alone,you have to see the stone.
What to Look For Before You Buy
Here’s what we tell every client when shopping for an oval diamond:
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View it in real lighting,not just a studio photo.
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Watch it move,a video will show if the sparkle flows evenly or if the bow-tie dominates.
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Check from multiple angles,some bow-ties only show up from certain viewpoints.
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Trust your eye,if something feels off, it probably is.
At Azzallure, we never leave it to chance. We handpick each oval stone, study how it performs in natural light, and only select the ones where the sparkle carries across the entire surface.
We don’t just go by carat and clarity,we look at presence, balance, and face-up beauty. That’s how you avoid buying a lifeless stone that looked fine on paper.
The Bow-Tie Isn’t Always Bad
Let’s be clear,having no bow-tie at all doesn’t automatically make a diamond better. Some of the most stunning ovals we’ve seen have a hint of bow-tie, and it adds to their charm. It creates contrast, gives the stone a focal point, and makes it feel more dynamic.
It’s only when the bow-tie overtakes the sparkle that it becomes an issue.
If you’re ever unsure, ask for comparisons. We’ll happily show you two or three ovals side by side, and you’ll quickly see the difference.
Thinking of Going Oval?
Oval diamonds are loved for their soft, flattering shape and their brilliant sparkle. They elongate the hand, they feel elegant without being too traditional, and when chosen well, they’re absolutely breathtaking.
Don’t let the bow-tie effect put you off. Just make sure you’re buying from someone who knows how to evaluate it properly and is honest about what you’re seeing.
Want help choosing the perfect oval with the perfect cut?
Reach out to us at Azzallure for a personalized selection of handpicked oval diamonds, sparkle guaranteed, bow-tie under control.