When you think of diamond jewelry, the center stone usually grabs all the attention. But have you ever noticed the little diamonds that surround it, adding extra glimmer to the design? Those tiny gems are called melee diamonds, and they’re the unsung heroes of many dazzling pieces.

The Skinny on Melee Diamonds

Melee diamonds are essentially small diamonds that weigh less than 0.2 carats. In many cases, they’re even tinier—sometimes as little as 1/1000 of a carat! Even though they’re petite, these diamonds pack a punch when it comes to enhancing a jewelry design. Whether used in halo settings around a larger stone or clustered on rings, earrings, or necklaces, melee diamonds add that extra sparkle that makes your jewelry truly shine.

How Much Sparkle (and Value) Do They Bring?

Since melee diamonds are so small, their individual value isn’t huge. For instance, a diamond weighing around 0.20 carats might be priced at about $800 per carat. That means a single 0.20-carat melee diamond would cost roughly $160. For even smaller stones, the price per carat drops, so you end up with a tiny gem that’s more about the collective dazzle than individual worth.

The Art of the Cut

Melee diamonds are usually cut in factories with high-tech machines that can produce a lot of high-quality stones quickly. There are two main types of cuts:

• Single Cut Melee Diamonds: These have around 17-18 facets and carry a vintage vibe reminiscent of old-school round diamonds.
• Full Cut Melee Diamonds: With about 57-58 facets, these are more like modern brilliant cuts and tend to sparkle a lot more, which is why jewelers usually prefer them.

While single cut versions sometimes pop up in watch designs, full cut melee diamonds are the stars when it comes to making jewelry sparkle.

How Jewelers Get Their Hands on Melee Diamonds

Instead of buying them one by one, jewelers typically purchase melee diamonds in large parcels from wholesalers. These parcels are sorted to ensure the diamonds match in color, clarity, and size. Since each stone is so small, they’re sold without the usual certifications (like those from the GIA) because the cost of certification would outweigh the value of the diamonds themselves. This means jewelers have to carefully check each diamond to make sure it fits the bill before incorporating it into their designs.

Melee diamonds may be tiny, but they’re a critical part of what makes many pieces of diamond jewelry sparkle and shine. They add a layer of intricate detail and extra brilliance that transforms a good piece into a great one.

Next time you admire a stunning ring or a sparkling necklace, take a closer look at those little accents—they’re working hard to make the piece look its absolute best.