Cast your mind back to the early 2000s. If you were anywhere near an engagement ring counter, chances are you saw a lot of princess cut diamonds. Crisp, square, endlessly sparkly, it was the shape of the moment. Then fashion moved on, oval and emerald cuts took over, and the princess cut slipped into the background. Now, it is quietly finding its way back.
Why it fell out of favour?
Trends are cyclical, and the princess cut got caught on the wrong side of one. As softer, elongated shapes became the new favourites, a sharp, geometric stone started to feel like a throwback. It was not that the diamond had changed; the mood around it had.
Why are people taking another look?
Nostalgia plays a big part. Anything with a whiff of the early 2000s is having a moment, and the princess cut sits right in that sweet spot, familiar enough to feel nostalgic, yet different enough from today's ovals to feel fresh. There is also a wider appetite for geometric, square shapes, with buyers looking for something with a bit more edge than the usual soft silhouettes.
The setting changes everything
This is where the princess cut gets interesting. Set it kite-style, with the corners pointing north, south, east, and west rather than squared to the band, and it looks completely different. East-to-west settings, hidden halos, two-stone designs and split shanks all give this shape a thoroughly modern feel, far removed from the classic solitaire you might remember.
One thing worth knowing
Those pointed corners are the most vulnerable part of the stone, so a protective setting matters. Prongs on each corner, or a bezel or halo that cushions the edges, will keep it secure for everyday wear.
Worth a second look
If you have written the princess cut off as dated, it deserves another look, particularly in a modern setting. It is a shape with real character, and being less common right now means yours is less likely to look like everyone else's.
Visit Azzallure to see princess-cut diamonds in contemporary settings, and find out how different this underdog can look in person.